The Power of Herbalife in Sport

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Your Feet And Shoes

How To Choose The Right Shoe

There's no single 'best shoe' - everyone has different needs. All sorts of things - your biomechanics, your weight, the surfaces you run on, and obviously, the shape of your feet - mean that one person's ideal shoe can be terrible for another person.

We divide our shoes into three main categories (cushioned, stability and motion control); and three minor ones (performance training, racing and off-road). The first three are everyday options and are categorised essentially by your biomechanical needs; the second three are more specialised and you'd often only consider them as second shoes.

The first step in finding your basic shoe needs is to try our 'Wet Test', below or, preferably, to visit a biomechanics expert or experienced shoe retailer.

The Wet Test works works on the basis that the shape of your wet footprint on a dry floor or piece of paper roughly correlates with the amount of stability you might need in your shoe. Take note: 'roughly'! It's a handy starting point.


The Normal Foot
Normal feet have a normal-sized arch and will leave a wet footprint that has a flare, but shows the forefoot and heel connected by a broad band. A normal foot lands on the outside of the heel and rolls inwards slightly to absorb shock. It's the foot of a runner who is biomechanically efficient and therefore doesn't need a motion control shoe.
Best shoes: Stability shoes with moderate control features.
Next step:
More about stability shoes
The Flat Foot
This has a low arch and leaves a print which looks like the whole sole of the foot. It usually indicates an overpronated foot - one that strikes on the outside of the heel and rolls inwards (pronates) excessively. Over time, this can cause many different types of overuse injuries.
Best shoes: Motion control shoes, or high stability shoes with firm midsoles and control features that reduce the degree of pronation. Stay away from highly cushioned, highly curved shoes, which lack stability features.
Next step:
More about motion control shoes
The High-Arched Foot
This leaves a print showing a very narrow band or no band at all between the forefoot and the heel. A curved, highly arched foot is generally supinated or underpronated. Because it doesn't pronate enough, it's not usually an effective shock absorber.
Best shoes: Cushioned (or 'neutral') shoes with plenty of flexibility to encourage foot motion. Stay away from motion control or stability shoes, which reduce foot mobility.
Next step:
More about cushioned shoes

Stability shoes

Stability shoes offer a good blend of cushioning, medial support (to limit excessive inward rolling of the foot, which can cause injury) and durability. To provide stability, they often have a medial post or dual-density midsole - these are features that provide a firmer density under the inner edge of your foot. They are usually built on a semicurved last.

You should buy these if: you're a midweight runner who doesn't have any severe motion control problems and wants a shoe with some medial support and good durability. Runners with normal arches are often fine in stability shoes.

Motion control shoes

Motion control shoes are the most rigid, control-oriented running shoes. They're designed to slow down or limit extreme inward rolling of the foot and ankle, which can cause injury (this excessive rolling is called 'overpronation'). Motion control shoes are generally heavy but very durable. They may include features such as a medial post (a firmer section under the inner edge of your foot, for pronation control); a polyurethane midsole (for midsole durability) and a carbon rubber outsole (for outsole durability). Many are built on a straight last, which offers stability and maximum support on the inner side of your foot.

You should buy these if: you're an overpronator who needs control features and places a premium on durability; or you wear orthoses (sculpted shoe inserts) and want a firm midsole and deep heel counter; or you're a heavy runner who needs extra durability and control. Runners with flat feet often do best in motion control shoes.

Cushioned shoes

Cushioned shoes generally have the softest midsoles and the least added stability. They're usually built on a semicurved or curved last to encourage foot motion, which is helpful for runners who have rigid, immobile feet ('underpronators').

You should buy these if: you're an efficient runner whose feet don't roll inwards excessively ('overpronate') when you run. Runners with high arches often do best in cushioned shoes.

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Performance training shoes

 

Performance training shoes are simply lighter or more responsive versions of standard trainers. Usually built on a semicurved or curved last, they're for fast-paced training or racing. They usually have less cushioning than a normal running shoe, for light weight and responsiveness. Some are relatively stable; others are not.

You should buy these if: you're a quick, efficient runner who wants a light second shoe for fast-paced training; or you want a racing shoe, but want more support and cushioning than you'd get from one of the pure, superlight racers.

Racing Shoes

Racing shoes are ultra-lightweight, built on a curved last and stripped of the majority of cushioning and stability features found on most training shoes. Generally, the lighter the shoe, the more minimalist the design.

You should buy these if: you're a fast, elite runner concerned predominantly with weight. Unless you're very light, these aren't for you if you run a marathon outside 2:45, or 1:30 for a half.

 

Off-road, or 'trail', shoes

Off-road, or 'trail', shoes offer increased outsole traction, and uppers with toe bumpers and reinforced stitching for more durability. The foot often sits slightly lower to the ground than usual, for stability and responsiveness; and the shoes often have less cushioning than a road shoe, because they're designed for softer surfaces.

You should buy these if: you do a lot of off-road running and need shoes with extra traction, more durable uppers and extra protection from the terrain.

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How To Lace Your Shoe

Loop-lacing lock
This is a great way to create a secure, tight fit. Just put each lace end back into the same hole it just exited, leaving a small loop on the top side of the shoe; now thread each loose end through the loop on the opposite side; then pull to create a supertight closure.

Loop-lacing lock

For a high instep
Problem: High instep.
Solution: Start with normal criss-cross lacing, but over the midfoot feed the laces up each side of the shoe. Finish with the criss-cross technique at the top.
Problem: Wide forefoot.
Solution:
Over the width of your foot just feed the laces up each side of the shoe, again using the criss-cross technique at the top.

For a wide forefoot

For a narrow foot
Problem: Narrow foot.
Solution:
Using the loop-lacing lock halfway up the shoe doubles the laces over your midfoot, ensuring a tight fit.
Problem: Heel slipping in your shoe.
Solution:
Lace the shoe using the normal criss-cross technique, then tie a loop-lacing lock on the last eyelet.

To stop heel slippage

Questions

Hi,
I'm just starting to get into running, and have just brought myself a pair of decent running trainers. They felt great in the shop, but having worn them around the house for a while I'm worried they're too tight. This may sound like a really stupid question, but how much room do you need for your toes to splay. What I mean is should there fell like there's loads of room in your trainers, or should you know that your trainers are 'there' if you know what I mean. I haven't really got access to a treadmill to try them out, and don't want to go out for a run and find that my feet are hurting because my shoes are too tight, and then can't take them back to the shop. Any advice?

Thanks,

Kirstie

Answers.

  1. If you've gone up a shoe size, then the length is probably OK. If you push your feet forward can you put a thumb down behind your heel? That's OK then.
    For the width - put on the shoes and stand up. Wiggle your toes. Can they move? Can you feel the seam of your socks being pushed into your skin round your toes - too tight.
    Try loosening the laces. One one brand of shoes, i re lace the shoes so that no laces go through the bottom set of holes.
    Would wearing thinner socks make a difference?
    You may find that you need men's shoes as these tend to be wider - i usually end up with men's.
    Let us know how you get on.
  2.  Depending on the make of shoe I normally go for upto a size larger than I normally would buy
  3. Thanks Dangly Spice,
    I did try Mens initially but they slip on my heel, I've got really thin ankles, the shop assistant described them as frog feet!! She said her's were like it too.

    From what you've described I think my shoes are ok. I've brought a pair of Asics and it was a toss up between these and a New Balance pair, in which my toes had loads of room. I choose these because my feet felt a bit more secure, but now I wondering if they're too secure, and if I should take them back and get a the new balance pair!

    I think I shall just have to find a treadmill, and have a go with them, so if they're no good at least I can take them back!
  4. I am not too convinced that my shoes fit properly either.. but I find it depends on socks and how tightly you lace them up. I can get a finger down the backs, but for some reason my left toes sometimes don't feel comfy - they sort of claw a bit (if I have blister socks on I find my shoes too tight). They are fine with thinner socks, and I then find them real comfy.

    However, there is a place in leeds that will check your old shoes, get you running to check your pronation (or not) and let you try the shoes for a day or so.. I am sure if you check www.yell.co.uk site you can find a running supplier near you who would do all this too.

    Maybe it is cos we have nothing to compare our first pair of shoes too? I think my next pair will serve me better, as I have a better idea of how I run.
  5. Kirstie - it may help to try different forms of lacing. There's an article somewhere on the site re this (link below!). I have wide forefeet but narrow heels, and changing the lacing has helped no end for me.
  6. Thanks Iain article most useful, and thanks everyone for your input.
    I did try thinner socks, but then the heel was a bit loose!!
    I'm going to bully my Dad into taking me to his Gym, so I can go on the running machine. At least it will give me an idea of what they are going to do when I run. If there weren't so many leaves and muddy puddles around I'd risk it outside.

    Thanks again, I'll let you know how I get on!

Hi all,
after running on the treadmill I can report that, my shoes are great. I've had to play around with the laces and socks abit, but I did my usual route the other day, and I knocked almost 1 and half minutes off my time, and I didn't even realise I was going faster! It's amazing what some extra spring can do for you. I think I've also got a bit fitter since the last time I ran the route!
Thanks for all your advice,
Kirstie

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